THE ASCENT OF LENIN PEAK (7134M)
Mountain adventure tour
Lenin Peak (7134 m) is one of the highest peaks of the Pamirs and one of four seven-thousanders of the former USSR. The mountain is located in the East part of the Pamirs in the Zaalaisky range on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. It is the most readily available mountain where it is possible to ascend, even if you have minimum of special mountaineering skills and high-rise experience which can be received in the courses of participation in ascent programs on lower and simple mountains. For example ascent to Elbrus.
Professional guides, proper equipment, and optimized program of acclimatization make this tour successful and safe.
FEATURE OF THE ROUTE
This tour is Climbing tour. This route is defined as a route of 5 A categories of complexity (by Russian classification). The route doesn't have technical difficulty but it requires to use special climbing equipment: crampons, ice axe and etc. You can receive skills of using of that equipment as a result of classes in technic of movement on snow and ice.
Natural factors such as altitude, an air sparseness, cold, frequent winds, lack of visibility in bad weather, allocation of sulfuric gases, hyperactivity of sunlight will demand from climbers good physical form, endurance and proper equipment.
Tour is not recommended to the people having medical contra-indications!!!
Day 1- Arrival to Osh city. Transfer Osh - Base camp Achik-Tash (3600 m)
Flight Moscow - Osh can be direct flight from Moscow (although flight via Bishkek or Alma-Ata is possible to).
Meeting at the airport, visit market to purchase the products and equipment. Equipment and personal things are in the car. Transfer to the base camp near settlement Achik-Tash (3500m). We will go to the mountains along the road which is called "Great Silk Road". We will see mountains and snow peaks, lakes and hospitable inhabitants of Kyrgyzstan. Transportation takes about 9 hours. Lunch will be served on the way in yurta. Accommodation in the base camp in the tents or in yurtas for two people each. There is electricity 220 V, a toilet, a shower, satellite phone in base camp "Achik-Tash". It is warm here. There is a lake of blue-green color with crystal-clear water, the Alpine meadows with edelweisses and there is a lot of sun. And all this is around our camp. A little farer we can see magnificent pastures. Local shepherds, their wives and children are always glad to see guests and we can try the real koumiss (the Kyrgyz national drink) in one of yurtas. Dinner in our camp in the yurta. The food cooked for us is very tasty. Overnight in the base camp "Achik-Tash".
Day 2 Day of active acclimatization in "Achik-Tash"
After breakfast in yurta, acclimatization trek to the nearest slopes up to the altitude of 4200-4400 meters. It is possible to go to Petrovsky peak (4800 m, simple route). Return to camp.
Day 3 Trek to the pass of Travellers (4200 meters)
Breakfast. Acclimatization trek to the pass of Travellers. On the way - well-known as "An onion glade" with a blossoming wild onion, falls, the freakish rocks which remind an ancient feudal castles. It is possible to climb above the shoulder from the saddle and there you can see a majestic view of a glacier and Lenin Peak. Return to camp. Prepare equipment and food for trek to ABC (the advanced base camp). Luggage will be transported to ABC by pack animal; we sort equipment and products, carefully we weigh and we pack each trunk (weight shouldn't exceed admissible norms).
Dinner. Overnight in base camp "Achik-Tash".
Day 4 Trek to ABC (Advanced base camp, 4400 meters)
After breakfast, trek to ABC up to the altitude of 4400 meters it takes about 5-7 hours. Our luggage, equipment and products is transported by pack animals (burros and horses). We take personal not a heavy ruckzacks and go along simple mountain path, enjoying panorama of magnificent Pamir. Placement in stationary tents. There is electricity 220 V, a toilet, a shower, satellite phone in ABC. Dinner in a yurta dining room. Overnight in ABC.
Day 5- Day of rest and acclimatization in ABC
Breakfast. We get acquainted with the area, we consult about the route. We sort and pack equipment, products and personal things for trek to Camp No.1. Dinner. Overnight in ABC.
Day 6 Ascent to Camp No. 1 (5300 meters). Acclimatization.
Early breakfast (4-5 a.m.). Today we ascend to the altitude of 5300 meters. We take luggage for fixing of intermediate camps on 5300 meters and on 6200 meters: tents, products, gas, personal equipment.
On Lenin's glacier we use roped moving and crampons (bypassing cracks) before steep snow slope, using fixed ropes through large cracks. Then, following on a slope, trek on a snow plateau (so called "pan"). It is very hot here. All participants need to use sunblock cream and it is obligatory to put caps on, and it is better to put on "breathing masks", to close neck and hands from the sun. Traverse to the right on a snow slope till 5300 meters. Here on a slope we place a Camp No. 1. The route takes about 8-11 hours. Dinner. Overnight in Camp No. 1.
Day 7 Descent in ABC for rest (4400 meters)
Breakfast. Today we need to descent to ABC ( 4400 m). Roped descent takes about 3-4 hours. Shower. Dinner with a tasty and various dining (possible to order), and also a dessert with water-melons, grapes, tomatoes, apples. Rest. Dinner. Overnight in ABC.
Day 8 Ascent to Camp No. 1 (5300 ).
Early breakfast. (4-5 a.m.). Today we ascent to Camp No. 1 with other part of luggage for camps by 5300 meters and 6100 meters. We roped moving with crampons to Camp No. 1. Rest in the tents on the altitude of 5300 meters. Dinner, overnight in Camp No. 1.
Day 9 Ascent to Camp No. 2 (6200 meters). Acclimatization.
Early breakfast (8-9 a.m ). Ascent from camp №1 on the snow ice slope. Roped moving with using crampons. Trek to the top of "Razdelnaya" (6200 m) summit. Here is deep snow often. Time of climbing is about 5-7 hours. Fix the tents on 6200 meters - Camp No. 2. Rest. Dinner, overnight on “Razdelnaya” top in Camp No. 2. (For those whom will be difficult to spend the night in altiitude of 6200 meters, it is possible to descent in Camp No. 1 for overnight).
Day 10 Ascent to the altitude of 6400 meters. Acclimatization. Descent to Camp No. 1 (5300 m).
Breakfast. Today after overnight in the altitude of 6200 meters it would be better for acclimatization trek to the altitude of 6400 meters. Starting at 8-9 A.M.. From Camp No. 2 – moving via ice rocky slope, further we go via shoulder. The altitude is 6400 meters. Time in a way - 4-5 hours. It is possible to place Camp No. 3 before ascent. Short rest. Descent to Camp No. 1 (5300 m). Dinner. Overnight in Camp No. 1.
Day 11 Descent to ABC (4400 m) for rest
Breakfast. Today we need to descent (roped move) to ABC (4400 m). It takes about 3-4 hours. Shower. Lunch with a tasty and various dining (possible to order), and also a dessert with water-melons, grapes, tomatoes, apples. Rest. Dinner. Overnight in ABC. (it is possible to descent to the basic camp "Achik-Tash").
Day 12-13 Days of rest in Basic camp
In days of rest in base camp it is possible to walk to lakes, on "grass", take photos, listen to the music and even to see a photo or the DVD movie on the computer in a camp saloon. Group mission these days is strenuously to eat and drink tea, properly to have a rest and gain strength and moods before ascent to the top of Mountain. In the evening of the 13th day it is necessary to ascent to ABC.
Day 14 Ascent to Camp No. 1 (5300 meters)
Early breakfast. Start at 5-6 A.M. (trek is possible with tent for Camp No. 2 (6400m)). Trek to altitude of 5300 meters. Overnight in Camp No. 1.
Day 15 Ascent to Camp No. 2 (6200 meters)
Ascent to “Rasdelnaya” top (6200 m). Overnight in Camp No. 2.
Day 16 Ascent to the top of Lenin Peak (7134 meters)
Early waike up, exit for ascent at 4 A.M From Camp No. 2 – moving via ice rocky slope, further along a shoulder to a plateau altitude of 6400 m, further via snow and ice shoulder "Nozh" (“Knigh”) to a snow plateau (6900 m, a plateau of Parachutists). Go to the top of Lenin Peak (7134 m) via plateau of Parachutists. The way takes about 7-8 hours. Descent to Camp No. 2 (6200 m) or No. 1 (5300 m). It depends on health of group and weather. Overnight in Camp No. 2 or 1.
Day 17 - - Descent to ABC (4400 meters)
Breakfast. We remove tents and we descent to ABC (4400 meters). Rest. Dinner. Overnight in ABC.
Day 18-19 - Reserve days on a case of bad weather
In case of descent in previous day - day of rest and preparation for descent to "Achik-Tash" (packing of equipment and luggage in trunks for its transportation by pack animals).
Day 20 - Descent to Base Camp "Achik-Tash" (3500 meters)
Breakfast. Trek via mountain road to base camp "Achik-Tash". Our equipment and all luggage transport on horses and burros. We take personal not heavy ruckzacks and go by good road, we can take photos and enjoy abundance of oxygen, a smell of a grass and flowers, taste of water. Farewell dinner in a camp yurta. Overnight in "Achik-Tasha".
Day 21 Transfer to the Osh city. Departure day
Return to "civilization". We pack ruckzacks, we remove tents. Loading equipment and personal things to the car. Transfer to the Osh city (about 9 hours). Departure by direct flight Osh-Moscow.
- Depending on weather and group condition the program of tour can be changed in coordination with participants of group.
- Due to the increased danger of tour the guide’s instructions are obligatory for execution by all members of tour.
- It is possible on the way back have excursion in Osh city and visit “Suleiman” mountain
ATTENTION!!! - The guide and travel company does not bear responsibility for non successful summit climbing because of bad physical condition of a person or a personal indiscipline, bad weather or a route condition.
ATTENTION!!! Due to the increased danger of tour, the guide’s instructions are obligatory for execution by all members of tour.
Controversial questions can be solved BEFORE start of ascent or AFTER descent.
!!!!The guide and travel company have the rights to terminate ascent and tour for certain participants or whole group without compensation of payment in cases:
- Autocratic actions of the tourists breaking safety rules;
- Non-observance of rules of a public order and excessive use of alcohol drinks;
- manifestations of disrespect for local population and sights of the area
Applications for participation in this tour should be sent in advance! Admission registration in a border zone takes 3-4 weeks
SECURITY AND MEDICINE
Each group is equipped with the first-aid kit, radio station and navigation means (GPS). All participants are registers in local rescue group. It is necessary for you to have only individual medicines (vitamins, tablets from a headache, an adhesive plaster).
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS TO PARTICIPANTS OF THE ROUND
Absence of medical contra-indications to occupations by mountain sports. Age restriction isn’t younger than 18 years. Good physical form.
For foreign citizens - a copy of the international passport, the visa and the medical insurance
In the Osh city- in guest house or in private house; in basic camp “Achik-Tash” and in ABC-in double tents or in yurtas. There is an electricity 220 V, a toilet, a shower,sauna, satellite phone in basic camp "Achik-Tash"and in Camp №1. In Camp №2,3,4- accomodation in tents
In the first two days and in final day of the program a dining in the Osh city isn't included in tour cost. In the Osh city - a lot of cafes with ethnic cuisine (pilaf, lamian, mant, shish kebabs), fresh bake flat cakes and markets - abundance of fruit and vegetables (melons, water-melons, apples, peaches, grapes, tomatoes and many other things); in basic camp "Achik-Tash" and in Camp No. 1 the food is cooked by the cook (a dining in basic camp "Achik-Tash" and in Camp No. 1 is included into tour cost); in high-rise camps - we prepare the food on gas torches independently from the products bought in the Osh city (food enter into tour cost);
Transfer Osh-Achik-Tash and back by minibuses ,“UAZ’, “Land-Cruiser”, “Ural”, “Kamaz”
In the Osh city it is possible to call home from local public telephone booth; in basic camp "Achik-Tash" and Camp No. 1 - there is satellite phone.
POSSIBLE ADDITIONAL EXPENSES DURING TRAVEL
- Using satellite phone if necessary (payment by local tariff);
- Purchase of the local SIM card;
- Personal equipment (according to the list);
- Using bar;
- Sauna (3 hours) - 60 euros.
The list of necessary equipment you can look (here)
- Services of the chief guide-organizer and extra guides while ascending (1 for3 persons)
- Permission and registration in a border zone and all allowing documents;
- all transfer according to the program;
- Freight transportation by horses: "Achik-Tash" - ABC (4400 m) to 30 kg (15 kg there and 15 kg back) for one person;
- Rent of tents for Camp № 1.2.3
- Accommodation in the territory of basic camp "Achik-Tash" and in ABC territory in camp tents (using a toilet, water, a wastebasket, territory protection);
- Use of GPS and radio stations for communication between camps (stations will be at the guide);
- Using electricity for charging of accumulators for photo and video;
- Climbing insurance (an insurance on medical and transport expenses);
- a 3-times dining in basic camp "Achik-Tash" and in ABC;
- Food for independent cooking (in high-rise camps No. 1,2,3);
- Using a handrail in dangerous places and consultation on a route;
- Shower in basic camp "Achik-Tash" and in ABC;
- services of the doctor in ABC;
- Gas (necessery quantity of cylinders for cooking in high-rise camps);
- Rent of the kitchen equipment and public equipment
THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE:
- Flight Moscow-Osh-Moscow Tickets are bought orderly - for groups discounts are provided;
- Rent of personal equipment;
- A food in Osh city ;