SUMMIT KAZBEK (5034 m)
By the North slope (Russian side)
Mountain adventure tour
ATTENTION ! Attention! Border permission is to be made two months before beginning of the program. Therefore requests for the tour in 2017 are welcomed now!
When one speaks about the Caucasus, it is remembered two mountains - Elbrus and Kazbek. Kazbek, as well as Elbrus is a two-headed extinct volcano and the most east five–thousander mountain of the Caucasus. This is legendary mountain which known from songs, verses and legends This "the mountain with ice top" possesses special magic, attracting people by its extraordinary beauty and power.
The massif includes two tops: Kazbek Eastern (5034 meters) and Kazbek Western (5015th meter). The powerful and strongly broken off glaciers extensively go down from the Kazbek massif. On the South-East the Gergetsky glacier flows down, on the North-West beautiful icefall of the Maili glacier falls down from the Mayliysky plateau to the Genaldonsky gorge. Maili ice-fall is wider than all icefalls of the Caucasus. The glacier of Chach flows down on the North, on the North-East - Devdoraksky glacier flows down, on the East – Abano.
We offer an ascent of Peak Kazbek from Northern side (Russian side) from Genaldonsky gorge via Karmadon’s settlements in North Osetia
Feature of a route: there are no huts and mountain shelters on a route, therefore overnight are in the tents. There are no ropeways, lifts and snowcat, as on Elbrus, so climbers carry all necessary equipment and food in rucksacks.
This tour is Climbing tour, it is possible for people who are physically prepared and have skills of special mountain technic. Professional guides, proper equipment and the optimized program of acclimatization make this tour successful and save.
1st day -Arrival to the city Pyatigorsk.
A meeting at the airport or railway station of Mineralnie Vody with our assistant. A transfer to Pyatigorsk. . Accommodation in Intourist hotel. In the evening meeting with our representative. Questions about accommodation and time of a meeting is specified previously by phone or e-mail. Discussion of questions about equipment rent, distribution of common things like food, equipment etc. Preparation to the departure for trip.
2nd day –Going up to 2300 m.
Early waking up. Breakfast at 7.00.a.m. Transfer via the cities of Nalchik, Vladikavkaz to the Genaldonsky gorge. Further via Karmadon settlement to a border post (settlement of Kani) (4-5 hours). ).Register in a military boarder office, further trekking to the upper thermal sources (5-6 hours by a mountain path with rucksacks). On this part of a route it is possibile to rent pack animals for transportation of rucksacks). Camp at altitude of 2300 m. on the convenient equipped platforms. At this place there are natural baths which are filled with hot water (water temperature is 44,5 degrees). Here is possible to bathe. Dinner. Overnight in the camp.
3rd day -Acclimatization trek to the Geodesist peak.
Breakfast in the camp. Today is day of mountaineering training and acclimatization trek by slopes of peak the Geodesist (4100 m) to altitude of 3500 m. We study and train (repeat) the variants of belay, simple rock climbing, using jumar on fixed ropes, rappelling with descender, etc. - on a simple rocky route. Descent to the camp. Rest. Dinner, overnight in the camp.
4th day –Trek to the 3400 m.
Breakfast in the camp. Trek from the upper thermal sources to "Crest" at 3400 m. ((It is recommended to fill the thermoses in with tea or water. No natural water on a route). ). Trek by a rocky scree with small rock walls. Exit to a rocky buttress - a fixed rope about 60 m. It is necessary to move carefully, it is a lot of "live stones". It is must to have helmets. Climbing with heavy rucksacks takes 4-6 hours. There is a water and many convenient places for camp. Dinner. Overnight in the camp at altitude of 3400 m.
5th day -Trek to the Kazbek plateau – altitude of 4200 meters
Breakfast in the camp. After breakfast trek from "Crest" on 3400m to the Kazbek ice plateau on 4200m. Depending on route conditions part of the route might require roped moving, belaying simultaneously or alternate, fix the rope on the rocks when ascent on a plateau. Fixing the camp on the snow-ice plateau. Dinner. Overnight in the camp.
6th day –Rest day.
Day of rest and acclimatization with trek to Poljakova peak (4300м.). Preparation for the ascent. It is necessary to fill the thermoses in with tea in the evening. Dinner and overnight in the camp.
7th day –Summit day.
Early breakfast (3-4 a.m.). . Start time depends on the weather conditions and is discussed with a guide. We put warm clothes on and wear all necessary equipment. We rope up at the beginning of the way and start to go by the closed glacier (carefully! There are hidden crevasses!). For ascent we use fixed ropes, an alternate belay and ice axes. Duration of the ascent to the top of Kazbek takes 4-6 hours. Descent to the Kazbek plateau to our tents takes 3-4 hours. Dinner and overnight in the camp.
8th day -Reserve day on a bad weather
Reserve day on a bad weather. In case of bad weather in previous day - summit day. In case of success on summit on previous day - descent to the valley or day of rest.
9th day -Descent to thermal source- 2300 m.
After breakfast - descent to natural thermal source. Movement with simultaneously or an alternate belaying , fix the ropes, if necessary the organization of rappel (depending on route condition). The general time of descent to thermal sources - 6-8 hours. . Spending the night in a tent camp (2300 m.). It is possible to bathe in hot natural baths. Rest. Dinner.
10th day -Descent and transfer to the Pyatigorsk.
Breakfast. Trek from upper thermal springs to the settlement of Kani (border zone).. A transfer from the Genaldonsky gorge via Karmadon's settlement to the city Pyatigorsk. Accommodation in the hotel. Farewell dinner
11th day -Departure
• Depending on weather conditions and a group condition the program of tour can be changed in coordination with participants of group.
• Due to the increased danger of tour the guide’s instructions are obligatory for execution by all members of tour.
ATTENTION!!! - The guide and travel company does not bear responsibility for non successful summit climbing because of bad physical condition of a person or a personal indiscipline, bad weather or a route condition.
!!!!The guide and travel company have the rights to terminate for certain participants or all group in cases:
• Autocratic actions of the tourists breaking safety rules;
• Non-observance of rules of a public order;
• manifestations of disrespect for local population and sights of the area
• Permission and registration in a border zone and all allowing documents;
• all transfer according to the program;
• Hotel accommodation (2 nights);
• Foodstuff during an ascension;
• Rent of group belay equipment and the kitchen equipment;
• Services of the guide;
• Rent of tents;
• The insurance from accident;
• Safety (registration in the Ministry of Emergency Measures), a radio communication, GPS
DOES NOT INCLUDE:
• flight from the place of residence to the city Mineralnie Vody and back
• Rent of personal equipment;
• A food during hotel accommodation;
• Services of the cook;
• use of pack animals
• Extra night in hotel in case of not used reserve day;
SECURITY and MEDICINE:
Each group is equipped with the first-aid kit, radio station and navigation means (GPS). All groups are registered in group of the Ministry of Emergency Measures of Russia. To communicate with rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Measures it is possible on all extent of a route. It is necessary for you to have only individual medicines (vitamins, tablets from a headache, an adhesive plaster).
• Depending on weather conditions and a group condition the program of tour can be changed in coordination with group
• Tour is not recommended to the people having medical contra-indications!!!
• for foreign citizens - a copy of the international passport, the visa and the medical insurance
In the city Pjatigosk – in hotel "Intourist". Hotel reservation are reserved beforehand according to advance submitted demand. There are no huts and mountain shelters on a route, therefore climbers during an ascension live in the tents in own sleeping bags (rent of the tents is included into cost)
At the hotel it is possible to have a meals in the dining room or hotel’s cafe (breakfast is included, other meals are not included into cost of tour). Dishes of European or Caucasian cuisine are on a choice. On a route members cook dishes independently on a mobile kitchen (marching gas torches, kerosene stoves). During days with treks-climbing the lunch-package (sandwiches, cookies, chocolate) stands out. Gas torches, cylinders, kitchen ware are provided.
the Minibus "Gazelle" or same on a route: Pyatigorsk - Vladikavkaz - settlement Karmadon and back.
Recommend in given area to use operators of mobile communication - the BEE-LINE or the Megaphone. MTS works unstably.
In Vladikavkaz temperature from +15 to +30; On a route at elevation 3800 m-5034 m - temperature from +20 to-10
POSSIBLE ADDITIONAL EXPENSES DURING TRAVEL:
Food and souvenirs. In the city of Pyatigorsk it is possible to taste the present Caucasian cuisine (Ossetian pies, shish kebabs etc.) and to buy souvenirs.
to Receive consultations under the program and equipment, to rent equipment you can in the city of Pyatigorsk (demands for equipment to submit in advance).