THE ASCENT OF MT. ELBRUS FROM THE NORTH
(using the way of the first summit in 1829)
The route via the way of the first ascension to Elbrus which was made by Kilar Hashirov on East top in 1829 as a part of expedition general Emanuel.
Elbrus-the highest mountain in Russia, Caucasus, Europe. The highest massif of a volcano Elbrus is located to the north of the Main Caucasian ridge. Some consider that Elbrus - an extinct volcano, and the others - sleeping volcano. The Western top of Elbrus (5642 m) and the East (5621 m) are divided by a saddle (5340 m). The most beautiful and known tops of the Caucasus: Ushba, Donguz-Orun, Nakra-Tau are around the Elbrus. An ascension to Elbrus - prestigious extreme tour, it is possible for ordinary physically healthy people who have skills of alpinism. Professional guides, proper equipment and the optimized program of acclimatization make this tour successful and save.
The 1st day. A meeting at the airport of Mineralnie Vody with our assistant. A transfer to Pyatigorsk. Accommodation in Intourist hotel (DBL). Questions about time and place of a meeting is specified previously by phone or e-mail.
The 2nd day. After early breakfast transfer to the start point of the route. Movement on a mountain dirt road about 130 km (duration of moving - 5-8 hours). Placement in a base camp on a glade Surkh ( 2550 m.) Dinner. Overnight in the tent camp.
The 3rd day. Breakfast. Instructing about security measures at stay in highlands, behavior rules in mountains. Acclimatization trek to mt. Surkh (3100м.), excursion to Emanuel's stone, survey of a canyon of the river of Malka, waterfall “Sultan”, bathing in hot mineral springs of Dzhily-Su. Duration of excursions of 4-5 hours. Rest. We study and train (repeat) the variants of belay, how to put on crampons, etc. Dinner. Overnight in base camp.
The 4th day. Breakfast. Ascent with a part of luggage at the altitude of 3800 m. (it takes about5-6 hours). Camp No. 1 is on a moraine on the convenient equipped platforms. Rest. An easy dinner with hot tea. Descent down in base camp on a glade Surkh, on the way survey of exotic, almost lunar landscapes of Northern Prielbrusye. On a way - the huge territories covered with breed of a volcanic origin, a glade with stone "mushrooms" and the sculptures created by the nature as a result of geological processes. Rest. Training: "Knots, their application in mountaineering. Selfbelay in mountaineering". Dinner. Spending the night in base camp on a glade Surkh
The next day you go acclimatizing till "The north Priut" ("priut" means here "a hut" , "a shelter"). The altitude there is 3700 m. Some part of your luggage you can carry along to this altitude. For the night you'd better get down to the glade.
The 5th day. An ascent still higher than the "Priut" - till the moraine (3800 m) - is to be made that day. There you can pitch a tent camp. Or else you can stay at the "Priut", but there are very few places therein, so you are not sure of finding an accommodation.
The 6th day. The group ascends the slope till the Rocks of Lencz (4780 m) bivouacking there at night. It may also be recommended to walk still higher acclimatizing that day, till the 5000 m altitude. The night is spent at the bivouac on the rocks.
The 7th day. The following morning the group had better get down to the "mushroom glade" and have some rest. But for the night you have to get back to the high camp (at the Lencz's Rocks).
The 8th day. The summit day. Getting up at 3 a. m. At 4 a. m. the group is to start. The whole ascent and descent together may take from 8 to 15 hours - that depends on the weather, the condition of the route, the physical state of the participants etc. The night after the ascent is to be spent at the Lencz's Rocks.
The 9th day. This is an extra day ("the reserve day") for the case of bad weather. If the group has managed climbing the mountain the preceding day, this day you can have some rest and get down to the glade of Soorh.
The 10th day. Getting back to the hotel in Pytigorsk.
The 11th day. An excursion around the town, then departure to Moscow from the Mineralny Vodys' airport
For fixed groups: any dates according to schedule of international flight to/from Moscow or to/from Mineralnye Vody.
For individuals: we fix some dates to collect groups in Mineralny Vody.
TO JOIN MIXED GROUP (RUSSIANS, FOREIGNERS).
Dates are given from Mineralny Vody (1st ady) to Mineralny Vody (11th day).
Service in Moscow are to be booked separately by each climber according to international flight plan and wishes of the climber.
THE PROGRAM COST INCLUDES:
- visa support;
- all program’s transfers (from to Mineralny Vody to Pytigorsk; from Pytigorsk to the base camp (the glade of Soorh); getting back to the town of Pyatigorsk and then to the airport Mineralny Vody);
- the hotel accommodation (for 2 nights) DBL breakfasts;
- three meals a day while staying at the base camp at the glade of Soorh as well as providing with lunch-packets (used while walking/climbing);
- hire of the common equipment (that is used by the whole group) and tents (for high camps) as well as of the kitchen equipment;
- a mountain guide;
- extra guides while ascending (1 for 3-4 persons);
- cook (while staying at the base camp at the glade of Soorh);
- registration in Prielbrusie (for foreign citizens);
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE:
- the permit for staying in the national park ( 1000 rub / ~ €25 );
- lunches, dinners in the cities an hotels;
- international and domestic flight;
- rent of personal equipment;
- optional excursions, additional service on the glade (sauna, sattelite tel, etc).